Adjusting a pattern

Grab your pen, paper and a calculator; it’s time for some math! From your gauge swatch you know how many stitches and rows you need for 10 cm. Let’s say you need 16 stitches and 24 rows to produce 10 x 10 cm. A quick calculation will tell you that you need 1.6 stitches per 1 cm. For 60 cm, you would need 60 times 1.6 stitches, so 96 stitches. Edge stitches would need to be added to this number. Then for the height: you need 24 rows for 10 cm. This works out to 2.4 rows per 1 cm. For 55 cm, you would need 55 times 2.4, so 132 rows. If you don’t come out with a whole number, simply round it up or down. These now form the basis of your new item of clothing.

Now if, for example, you are knitting or crocheting a sweater, you then also need to know after how many rows to start working the armholes and neck. Suppose the armhole starts at 35 cm in the pattern. Using the numbers above, that works out to 2.4 x 35 = 84 rows. You also need to decrease 6 cm, which works out to 10 stitches (1.6 x 6 = 9.6). For the correct distribution of the stitches, check the instructions in the original pattern. Most decreases are worked over a number of rows instead of all in one go.

The decrease for the neck works in exactly the same way. Let’s say the stitches need to be cast off after 50 cm for the neck. According to our calculations above, that is 2.4 x 50 = 120 rows.

Following this process, you will be able to adjust any section of a pattern, including working out the increases and decreases.

Tip: make sure you are using the correct measurements. For example, if you are making separate front and back pieces, then you need to use just half the chest circumference. If you are working both together in the round, then use the whole chest circumference.